WHAT I DO WELL, PART1

I check-raise well. God, I am just the awesomest (quote, Barney Stinson) check-raiser ever. When I check to all the donkeys and they donk into me with their donkish donk-bets, I just love to check-raise their asses! Teaches them who is boss…!

…LOL. I don’t know why I wrote the above, but to anyone who didn’t pick up on it; those three lines are laden with irony. Come to think of it though, it wouldn’t surprise me at all, if there are actual people out there, who DO think those things. That’s hysterical…

Back to serious. I thought long and hard about what I (honestly) think I’m good at, when it comes to poker. Basically, I didn’t wanna sound like a pretentious fool with an inordinately arrogant perception of his own skills, so here it is.

Bankroll management. Yes, I am actually quite good at bankroll management. I wasn’t when I just started playing, but I doubt anyone is really. I’m a bit of a numbers-nerd and therefore thoroughly enjoy compiling statistics about the tournaments I play, the percentage of ITM-finishes I achieve, the potential new level of buy-in a certain bankroll allows me, based on a 50-buy-in-rule, 100-buy-in-rule etc etc. I haven’t re-invented the wheel in this connection, just picked from the various rules that others seem to be using profitably. In my opinion, the following elements are compulsory for anyone wishing to exercise sound bankroll management.

- Tournament play (includes STT play) should see you working with a minimum of 100 buy-ins at all times. I would even say that more than 100 is preferable, meaning that just because you have a $10K bankroll doesn’t necessarily mean you have to play only $100 tournaments. The 100 buy-in rule for me is a guideline for the MOST expensive tournaments you should take shots at.

My own current bankroll is hovering around the $6700 mark at the moment, after having been over $7K not too long ago. As such, this means I will from time to time take shots at $20rebuy (realistic investment 62 dollars) as well as theoretic $67 tourneys, if there was such a thing. I do however tend to play anything from $5rebuys to $10-20 freeze-outs and the occasional $50 tourneys.

My own biggest revelation (and an insanely logical one, at that) is that I play a lot better when I don’t worry about the money I spent to play the tournament. If you’ve got $420 in your online account and register for a $100+9 tourney, not very many people have the ability to not let that affect their play. I’m just saying…

- As for cash games, I don’t personally play them at the moment, but I have in the past. I feel the important thing is to consider the amount of money you’re risking at any given time – and not the stakes you’re playing. If you’re risking 5% of your bankroll during a cash game(s), then I’d say that’s probably the highest you should go. Again, let’s assume you’ve got a 1000 dollar bankroll. 5% is 50 bucks. This would allow you to play 1 table of NL50 (assuming full buy-in), 2 tables of NL25 or 5 tables of NL10 etc etc. I’ve heard people say, “Ok, a thousand bucks – 5% is equal to NL50” – and then proceed to fire up 4 tables at those stakes. Wrong. Now you’re risking 20% of your roll. Before I ‘got good’ at this bankroll thing, I DID the above myself – and unsuccessfully, I might add, so take it from me.

If you’re a limit player or perhaps play Pot Limit Omaha, I’ve got no clue what your bankroll should be. Probably a lot for the Omaha. Probably less for the limit games. If you’re Gus Hansen, you probably need a shitload. Who knows where those nosebleed-playing guys get their cash?

Anyway, I digress and that was not the point. Bankroll management – I know my way around an excel spreadsheet, I’m pretty good at calculating percentages and for the time being I feel like I’ve got BM-theory figured out. It IS a huge part of being a successful poker player. Hope y’all keep strict guidelines as well.


Days left until Aussie Millions 2010: 211